Long Weekend in Montecito At The Four Seasons
The seaside town of Montecito, California, a small town just south of Santa Barbara, is next in my weekend escapes from Marin series. Nestled between the Pacific Ocean and the Santa Ynez Mountain Range, Montecito is known for mild weather and stunning vistas that have drawn well-heeled visitors and celebrities for many years. Oprah Winfrey and Ellen DeGeneres both call this lovely town home. It boasts some of the most spectacular real estate in the world, with large gated estates nestled in the mountains. Usually when we visit, we stay at the stunning Four Seasons Biltmore Resort, which is steeped in both history and luxury.
Montecito, with a population of about 10,000 residents, features a classic Mediterranean climate, with the ocean providing warmer temperatures in the winter and cooler in the summer and average highs year round of 65-75 F degrees. Architectural styles vary, but the classic Spanish Mediterranean style is dominant to the point that it’s often referred to as “Santa Barbara style” now in Marin County real estate promotional materials. One of the wealthiest communities in the country, Montecito boasts an understated style and elegance, attracting celebrities and politicians who appreciate it sublime sophistication.
While formally named The Four Seasons Resort: The Biltmore Santa Barbara, most refer to the stunning hotel on Butterfly Beach simply as “The Biltmore.” Built in 1927 and then remodeled and relaunched in 2007 at a cost of more than $200 million, the hotel is comprised of low-rise buildings and cottages surrounded by 22 acres of lush gardens featuring a Morteon Bay Fig tree dating back to the 1800s and 75 different species of palm trees. It was the gardens that first attracted me to this idyllic resort years ago. Paths wind through the gardens, connecting all of the cottages.
The gardens are a popular spot for both hotel guests and local dog walkers. The Four Seasons Biltmore welcomes guests with dogs as long as arrangements are made in advance. Dog owners will arrive to find their room equipped with a dog bed, a food bowl filled with food, and even a bowl with bottled Four Seasons water.
Also located in the garden area is the green, home to weddings and a croquet court. Hotel guests may often be seen playing croquet in this spot just off the main walkway.
The Biltmore overlooks beautiful Butterfly Beach, also home to the Coral Casino, an exclusive beach club that caters to the elite of Montecito and Los Angeles. Depending on your room package, you may have access to the Coral Casino and its stunning near-Olympic sized swimming pool. Legend has it that the pool was purposely designed one foot larger than the 50-meter regulation size when an argument transpired between the founder and the Olympic Commissioner at the time so that it could never be used to host regulated events. The pool is — bar none — my favorite place in the world to swim laps. The Coral Casino also features a world-class fitness center and the Tydes Restaurant, a wonderful venue in which to watch the sunset and enjoy fine cuisine.
Aside from the Coral Casino, there are two dining options at the Biltmore – the Bella Vista restaurant, and the Ty Lounge, both of which feature outdoor seating looking across the front lawn to the ocean. Bella Vista serves a marvelous daily breakfast buffet (a la carte also available) and their Sunday morning prix fixe buffet is not to be missed, featuring caviar and champagne all-you-can-drink-and-eat.
I have been fortunate to stay at some of the world’s finest hotels and resorts, and the Biltmore ranks near the top from a service perspective. The staff is there when you need something and invisible when you don’t, and somehow they remember all the guests’ names. The food service is exemplary, with teams of servers ensuring all water glasses are filled, plates cleared and wines decanted, often in unison. The fitness center on property is small but very nice, and the treatments in the adjoining spa are world class.
If you want to explore Santa Barbara, the Biltmore has bicycles for rent for a nominal fee. It’s an easy, safe ride into Santa Barbara — much of it is on dedicated bike trails and paths. You can also peddle a few minutes to Coast Village Road, Montecito’s high-end lane filled with restaurants and shopping. The Montecito Inn, a less-expensive alternative to the Biltmore, is also located along this stretch of road. One of my favorite restaurants is Tratorria Mollie — but due to its popularity with the likes of Oprah Winfrey and President Barack Obama, reservations are a must.
About 10 minutes from the Biltmore is the beautiful San Ysidro Ranch hotel. While I have never stayed here, I have visited frequently to dine at the hotel’s Plow & Angel restaurant, which reminds me of being back in Tuscany. If the weather is cooperating — and it almost always is in Montecito — sitting outside at the rustic tables under the stars is a real treat. Reservations are not accepted, however, so my advice is to arrive early and have a drink. Corkage is provided if you have a special bottle of wine you want to bring from home. Be sure to walk around the property after dinner – it is beautifully illuminated.
Another of my favorite activities in Montecito is to spend a day at a stunning garden estate called Lotusland. If you enjoy gardens, especially exotic gardens, you should plan on at least a half-day at Lotusland. Reservations for the guided tours, which is the only way non-members can see Lotusland, are mandatory. You may also decide to become a member of Lotusland as I did, which allows you to explore the 37-acre property at your leisure. However, the first time you visit you will want to partake in the guided tour to hear about the history of Lotusland as well as the woman who created it.
“Madame Ganna Walska, a well-known Polish opera singer and socialite, purchased the estate in 1941 and spent the next 43 years creating Lotusland. The spectacular collections of exotic plants throughout the 37-acre property are a very personal expression of Walska’s penchant for the dramatic, the unexpected, and the whimsical. After her death in 1984, Lotusland became a nonprofit botanical garden and opened to the public in 1993. Lotusland’s outstanding educational programs serve the local community and its innovative horticultural practices are shared with botanic gardens and garden-lovers around the world.”In Their Own Words...
Ganna Walska’s over-the-top sensibility (why have one Agave plant when you can have 300?) pervades the different “rooms” of her estate’s gardens, from the cycad garden featuring extremely rare specimens from all over the world to the astrological clock (pictured above) to the outdoor theater decorated with whimsical statuary to a swimming pool now filled with lotus flowers and other water-loving plants. The estate also hosts special exhibitions depending on the time of year. The main attraction is the gardens where she spent most of her time and money. Her home, by comparison, was rather small and ordinary by Montecito standards compared to the grand garden she created.
It is truly not to be missed.
If you are looking for a weekend getaway from Marin County, Montecito is an excellent choice. The drive takes about 6 hours and is a pretty drive, taking you through farmland south of San Jose onto San Luis Obispo and coastal towns such as Morro Bay. We used to stop on the way down and have lunch. Now we buy sandwiches up here in Marin and pack a cooler so we can take turns driving and eating — why waste time stopping on the way to paradise?
As always, I am happy to help you with your real estate questions and needs. Please call or text me at 415.847.5584. If you decide to visit Montecito, I am sure you will love it as much as I do.
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